Spoleto
Rain, the first for a month, so it was borne stoically and we headed for Spoleto for a dose of indoor diversions. Museums, churches, Roman houses and an old papal fortress, the Rocca Albornaziana. From Italian unification until the 1980s this fortress had been used as a maximum security prison, housing at one stage the would-be assassin of John Paul II. Given that the place is still covered in papal seals, frescoes and overt religious symbols, this would have been a bit like imprisoning Mark Chapman in a Beatles museum. Cruel and unusual punishment.
We watched Italy's second World Cup game in a cafe with the locals. With their designer labels, mopeds and passionate Latin blood they presented as typical a spectacle as a tourist could wish for. Until we noticed they were drinking Tennants Special. Which left us with the question: What do the tramps in Italy drink?
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