The Valley of the Temples.
How can we interest people in contemporary art?
Hey, I've got an idea. Let's fill an ancient masterpiece of proportion and grandeur, the 430 BC Tempio della Concordia, with a load of impenetrable modern rubbish of the sort that accumulates bird droppings in modern plazas.
It's as if Helen of Troy appeared one day sporting a spider's web tattoo on her face.
Wednesday, 2 June 2010
Thursday 27 May Selinunte to Agrigento via Eraclea Minoa beach
Campsite showers are never great, but I do look back on this morning's with some nostalgia. It was the last period of normality for a while.
The sight that greeted me upon leaving the block was one of some disarray. Our 2 year old has fairly regular bowels, and mid morning is one of her favoured times for the egestion of waste. For reasons not established at the time of writing, Chloe was roaming naked on her scooter when she felt the urge to purge in front of the communal facilities.
Onto her shoes, the scooter, the textured concrete ground. Maddie came to investigate and stood in it. I can record that baby wipes are effective on skin, but lack the penetrative power required to work stool based material out of the rear mechanism of a scooter. They also struggle with concrete cleansing and fabric shoes.
Fortunately, traffic to use the facilities was light, although one camper did walk past us 7 times, seemingly doing laps of the site. Her eyes remained steadfastly fixed ahead each time, whether out of revulsion or sympathy we can only speculate.
The sight that greeted me upon leaving the block was one of some disarray. Our 2 year old has fairly regular bowels, and mid morning is one of her favoured times for the egestion of waste. For reasons not established at the time of writing, Chloe was roaming naked on her scooter when she felt the urge to purge in front of the communal facilities.
Onto her shoes, the scooter, the textured concrete ground. Maddie came to investigate and stood in it. I can record that baby wipes are effective on skin, but lack the penetrative power required to work stool based material out of the rear mechanism of a scooter. They also struggle with concrete cleansing and fabric shoes.
Fortunately, traffic to use the facilities was light, although one camper did walk past us 7 times, seemingly doing laps of the site. Her eyes remained steadfastly fixed ahead each time, whether out of revulsion or sympathy we can only speculate.
Wednesday 26 May Selinunte, south west Sicily
Another day, another ruined Greek settlement. I have an as yet untested theory about the Carthaginians, who had a propensity to sack the Greek outposts in Sicily. If the Greek columns weren't so damn satisfying to topple over, their cities would probably have been left alone. They fall so beautifully, however, that I'm in sympathy with the pillagers. It would have been a bit like building a giant domino run and telling your better armed and culturally backward neighbour not to touch.
Tuesday 25 May, Selinunte via Segesta/Trapani/Erice.
Erice is the perfect mediaeval hilltop town, beautifully situated for views across Trapani to the Egadi islands. Reached by a stunning 15 minute cable car ride, it is also, apparently, the ideal transmitting station for radio masts, mobile phone masts and satellite dishes.
The visual vandalism is soon forgotten in the atmospheric tumble of ancient streets. Primarily because, given the lack of space for a compact perambulator in the van, Chloe is strapped to my back and exhaustion soon takes over.
The Italian indulgence of children can sometimes lead to cultural misunderstandings. Despite the allure of the planet's finest ice cream, Chloe is insistent that all she requires for her happiness to be completed is a plain cone. Plain as in no ice cream. At all. When this is requested at the gelateria, the Italians naturally assume this is a northern European austerity measure, and the denial of a basic human right for this seemingly angelic toddler. So, with an avuncular smile they dip the end into ice cream and pass to an appalled Chloe. Meltdown ensues. Chloe is removed from the establishment, flustered explanations in pidgin Italian ensue. It's all a bit embarrassing really.
However, the arrival of Grandad, with a new Tiny Baby, has mollified her somewhat. The perfect campervan toy. Tiny. With tiny detachable shoes. And tiny removable trousers. And tiny removable jumper. I give it a week.
The visual vandalism is soon forgotten in the atmospheric tumble of ancient streets. Primarily because, given the lack of space for a compact perambulator in the van, Chloe is strapped to my back and exhaustion soon takes over.
The Italian indulgence of children can sometimes lead to cultural misunderstandings. Despite the allure of the planet's finest ice cream, Chloe is insistent that all she requires for her happiness to be completed is a plain cone. Plain as in no ice cream. At all. When this is requested at the gelateria, the Italians naturally assume this is a northern European austerity measure, and the denial of a basic human right for this seemingly angelic toddler. So, with an avuncular smile they dip the end into ice cream and pass to an appalled Chloe. Meltdown ensues. Chloe is removed from the establishment, flustered explanations in pidgin Italian ensue. It's all a bit embarrassing really.
However, the arrival of Grandad, with a new Tiny Baby, has mollified her somewhat. The perfect campervan toy. Tiny. With tiny detachable shoes. And tiny removable trousers. And tiny removable jumper. I give it a week.
Monday 24 May, Scopello, western Sicily.
Zingura Nature Reserve provides visitors with a map and list of rules upon entering, intent on preserving the pristine environment. A lovely 20 minute walk through this dog free wilderness finds a beautiful cove, white pebble beach and turquoise waters where Maddie rediscovered her love of the sea.
Rule (d) states that persons accessing the park will not remove earth, stones or other materials. The author of rule (d) had clearly not envisaged the situation that Chloe created in the mid afternoon sunshine.
Never one to suffer flies silently, her complaints had risen to the extent that parental checking of the area was undertaken. This revealed a large quantity of faecal matter on the beach, sourced from the nearby nappy, and attracting the interest of the waste management division of the local insect population. Nearby sunbathers remained oblivious as rule (d) was broken and a significant quantity of formerly white pebbles were furtively transferred to bags for removal from the park.
Things that don't happen at home #4 One's dignity is compromised by having to wash sand from one's feet in the central facilities. Said facilities contain solely pedal operated baisins. The resulting contortions can be imagined.
Rule (d) states that persons accessing the park will not remove earth, stones or other materials. The author of rule (d) had clearly not envisaged the situation that Chloe created in the mid afternoon sunshine.
Never one to suffer flies silently, her complaints had risen to the extent that parental checking of the area was undertaken. This revealed a large quantity of faecal matter on the beach, sourced from the nearby nappy, and attracting the interest of the waste management division of the local insect population. Nearby sunbathers remained oblivious as rule (d) was broken and a significant quantity of formerly white pebbles were furtively transferred to bags for removal from the park.
Things that don't happen at home #4 One's dignity is compromised by having to wash sand from one's feet in the central facilities. Said facilities contain solely pedal operated baisins. The resulting contortions can be imagined.
Sunday 23 May. Palermo to Scopello via Monreale
A morning's rockpooling. A lunchtime in Monreale where cloisters, although entailing the handing over of 6 Euros to the coffers of the Roman Catholic church, provided an oasis of calm in a hectic day. Or they should have. Instead they provided Chloe with the stage for a diverting, and compulsory, game of hide and seek. Believe me, it was quieter that way. If we didn't engage she filled her lungs and informed the entire town that it was her turn to hide.
Chloe is being subjected to the kind of attention that would raise eyebrows at home. But what is it about Italy that makes a father smile indulgently when his daughter is stopped by the old man sitting on the street corner and kissed? As opposed to snatching her away and reporting him to the authorities.
Chloe is being subjected to the kind of attention that would raise eyebrows at home. But what is it about Italy that makes a father smile indulgently when his daughter is stopped by the old man sitting on the street corner and kissed? As opposed to snatching her away and reporting him to the authorities.
Tuesday, 1 June 2010
Saturday 22 May Palermo, Sicily.
Ranked by our guidebook as one of the top 20 Things Not To Miss in Sicily, is the Sicilian Puppet Museum. Despite my skepticism that such tomfoolery could hold my interest, I found myself on a spiritual journey of discovery. For centuries this important entertainment medium provided escapism for the populace of Sicily. Puppeteers took their craft seriously, and if a puppet 'died' during a performance it was dismantled as it couldn't be used again in that form. The puppets depicting Christians were detailed and individualised while those representing the Saracens were largely uniform, if not faceless. The international section contained Vietnamese water puppets and a large Balinese collection.
Actually, it was as tedious as it sounds. And how can what claims to be the world's premier puppet museum (I don't imagine the competition is stiff) make no mention of the muppets?
Things you wish you'd never found out about your spouse #3 She 'loves Punch and Judy'.
Actually, it was as tedious as it sounds. And how can what claims to be the world's premier puppet museum (I don't imagine the competition is stiff) make no mention of the muppets?
Things you wish you'd never found out about your spouse #3 She 'loves Punch and Judy'.
Friday 21 May, Costa Rei, Sardinia to Palermo, Sicily via Nora.
Every life has its punctuation marks, times when events conspire, prompting us to gaze inwards and wonder at the meaning of life. Such a moment was breakfast this morning as the last of the Weetabix, carried from the UK, was consumed. By Chloe. A father's love has no bounds, though his resentment may be tested. What will the breakfast of the future be on this Weetabix desert on the very fringes of Europe?
Nora is a beautifully situated ancient ruin, occupied continuously from the Phoenicians and Romans through to the Middle Ages. Its sometimes turbulent past was reflected verbally over lunch at the cafe.The language of violence comes easily to Chloe. Struggling to transfer her pasta from the plate to her fork, her frustration grew with each attempt to spear her favourite carbohydrate based foodstuff. 'Stab. Stab. STAB. STABBY. COME ON. COME ON.' At full volume. We can only hope our fellow diners had a limited grasp of English.
Nora is a beautifully situated ancient ruin, occupied continuously from the Phoenicians and Romans through to the Middle Ages. Its sometimes turbulent past was reflected verbally over lunch at the cafe.The language of violence comes easily to Chloe. Struggling to transfer her pasta from the plate to her fork, her frustration grew with each attempt to spear her favourite carbohydrate based foodstuff. 'Stab. Stab. STAB. STABBY. COME ON. COME ON.' At full volume. We can only hope our fellow diners had a limited grasp of English.
Tuesday 18 May to Thursday 20 May, Costa Rei
Sun. Wind. Beach. Bike ride.
Note to the people on site 43. You may have put off-road tyres on your habitable towing accessory. And raised its suspension. And put a number on the door of your vehicle. But listen carefully. You are still caravanners.
Wednesday 19 May Cagliari
Cagliari was great, but we didn't see Gianfranco Zola relaxing in a local bar, so ultimately the day must be deemed a failure.
Thursday 20 May
Mountainbike ride in Sardinia: on paper, an easy to navigate, demarcated circuit. A 2 hour trip to the top of a mountain where the path continued on the map. However,the topographical reality was an abrupt end necessitating a degree of orienteering spontaneity. The return journey took on a varied hue. The stage was a thunderstorm, the plot involved wading across a river, climbing over fences and following what looked like tractor tracks in the hope they led to civilisation.
Which they did, with no great drama.
The ferry is booked for tomorrow, taking us off this storm battered isle. We shall shake the sodden dust of Sardinia from our sandals.
Note to the people on site 43. You may have put off-road tyres on your habitable towing accessory. And raised its suspension. And put a number on the door of your vehicle. But listen carefully. You are still caravanners.
Wednesday 19 May Cagliari
Cagliari was great, but we didn't see Gianfranco Zola relaxing in a local bar, so ultimately the day must be deemed a failure.
Thursday 20 May
Mountainbike ride in Sardinia: on paper, an easy to navigate, demarcated circuit. A 2 hour trip to the top of a mountain where the path continued on the map. However,the topographical reality was an abrupt end necessitating a degree of orienteering spontaneity. The return journey took on a varied hue. The stage was a thunderstorm, the plot involved wading across a river, climbing over fences and following what looked like tractor tracks in the hope they led to civilisation.
Which they did, with no great drama.
The ferry is booked for tomorrow, taking us off this storm battered isle. We shall shake the sodden dust of Sardinia from our sandals.
Monday 17 May Costa Rei, south east Sardinia
A lovely campsite, right on the beach. Miles of golden sand lapped by clear turquoise water. Maddie, however, is devastated there is not a swimming pool.
I give up.
Monday 17 May will be recorded as the day that Tiny Baby, third in the pantheon of Chloe's favourite toys, passed from our lives. Bedtime was a long, drawn out affair.
I give up.
Monday 17 May will be recorded as the day that Tiny Baby, third in the pantheon of Chloe's favourite toys, passed from our lives. Bedtime was a long, drawn out affair.
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